My father loved biscuits. We always had plenty on the weekends for breakfast. He kept leftover biscuits to eat as snacks during the week or to turn into impromptu strawberry shortcake should the need arise. He was a southerner, but his biscuits weren’t sacred: He used biscuit mix ... every time. I never saw him make one from scratch. I tell you this because I firmly believe that in biscuits, much like in life, there is no right or wrong way, only different paths.

Still, the itch to test out the "best" way to make biscuits was not something I could ignore. I wondered how switching up the leavener, the liquid, the layering technique and more would affect how flaky, fluffy or tender a biscuit could be.

I used our Best Flaky Buttermilk Biscuit as a base, then changed an element in each batch to test the different paths the recipe could take. Along the way I learned my favorite way to make biscuits. I hope with my "scientific" findings you can find the best way for you!

Baking Soda, Baking Powder and Self-Rising Flour

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate. It requires an acid and a liquid (in this case, buttermilk) to activate. Baking powder includes sodium bicarbonate, but also a powdered acid. It only needs a liquid (could be milk, cream or buttermilk) to activate. Learn more about the differences at in our article comparing the two.A third option for bakers is self-rising flour. It has a mixture of baking powder and fine salt mixed into the flour.

For the first batch of biscuits, I used baking soda and baking powder. In the second batch I removed the baking soda and changed the baking powder to 3 tablespoons (as per our baking powder biscuits recipe), and for the third I used removed baking soda, baking powder and salt, and used self-rising flour.

Results: The baking soda and baking powder biscuit is browned, flaky and moist. Baking-powder-only led to a higher rise, but a drier, slightly less browned biscuit. (Also, be careful of using baking powders with aluminum as, in higher quantities, it might lead to a tinny/metallic flavor.) Self-rising flour lacked a little of the rise and flakiness of the other two, but the overall texture and quality were good.

Butter and Shortening

I tried both butter and shortening — which can be used as a one-to-one swap for each other. Cutting cold butter into flour creates delicious layers and flakey texture by providing little pockets of fat. Shortening can also attach to the flour, but unlike butter, even when very cold, shortening doesn’t harden.

Results: Butter is the winner in beauty and flavor. The milk solids from the butter caramelize to create even brownness and the pockets of butter create delineated, flaky layers. But don’t count shortening out! While they are a little bland in flavor, the shortening biscuits are incredibly tender. If you are looking for melt in your mouth texture, consider using all shortening, or try a mix with butter. For extra tall, flaky layers, try grating frozen butter on a box grater instead of cubing.

Whole Milk, Heavy Cream and Buttermilk

Much like the fats, the liquid you use makes a difference in the biscuit's flavor and texture, both inside the biscuit and brushed on top.

Results: Buttermilk biscuits have a little tang from the acid, which also reacts with the baking soda to create a fluffy result. Brushing buttermilk on top makes for a shiny biscuit, but slightly uneven browning. Heavy cream makes for a denser, richer biscuit, and the top is as shiny as buttermilk, but with more even browning. Whole milk gave me the tallest biscuit without sacrificing flavor, but it was a little less rich. Brushing the milk on top gave the biscuit an even brown, but wasn't shiny. (Butter also gives a nicely browned, but not shiny, biscuit.)